Selective Focus – A must in Photography

Now you might say to yourself,why I stopped on this road? Is it to shoot close ups of those yellow flowers? And the answer is no, but sort of, not quite, maybe. Actually why I’ve stopped was because of that lone tree on the dike here in West Friesland, Holland. As I mentioned I’m here on a dike you can clearly see. I’m in West Friesland, Holland about 45 minutes north of Amsterdam,and the challenge that I am presenting to you today is simply this: selective focus. Which when done correctly in a situation like this,will allow you to get down low, that’s step number one, and then utilizing the flowers themselves as little points to create mergers with the busy background of those houses.

So you’d be moving around here too noticing the butter cups, in this case, or yellow dandelion’s.And how they line up and hide that somewhat busy background beyond the tree.You will be shooting an aperture around 5.6. Focal length in this case is at 35-50mm range. And subsequently we’re gonna end up with a lone tree in what appears to be a meadow of massive amounts of yellow flowers, and again hiding all those houses and distractions in the background when combined with alow point of view, and utilizing the flowers as a way to block those houses.

I’m gonna get down low here and there is the tree. This beautiful already.Moving over just a a bit this way. That one white house is a small problem.Now it’s gone. Click, and take a look at that.Pretty simple stuff. Again selective focus, 5.6 keeps the field limited to the focused tree, and all that foreground that we see there is nothing more than out of focus yellow flowers. You’re racing off to the tulips.Great idea but in your haste to get there don’t overlook someone of the least and not so obvious photographic opportunities as well. Until next time this is Bryan Petersen saying you keep shooting.

The of the Most Important Elements in Photography


Today we will look at the three most important settings in your DSLR that are very useful in photography. They are Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO. A Lens Aperture is Marked on it as a ratio. In this case it is 1:1.8. The 1.8 is the Maximum this lens can open-up. The Blades form an Iris inside the lens. They control the amount of light that is passing through the lens. This lens cannot open up more than 1.8. But you can step it down till 22. You can step it down in steps 2.2..2.8..4… 6… 8… When you increase the F-Stop like that the Iris opening closes down. The more the lens is open which will be your lower F-stops, the more light gets through the lens on to the sensor. The larger F number you use, the less light gets into the sensor.

These series of pics demonstrate that effect. The larger the F number, the less light the sensor gets and less bright is the pic. Also, the larger the F number, more things are in focus. It is called Depth of Field. Less F numbers give Shallower depth of Field. Higher the F number gives more things in Focus. The shallower the Depth of field, the more your subject stands out of background. Light his the sensor and our picture is captured.

One way to control the incoming light is Shutter Speed. Shutter Speed is also shown as a fraction 1/00 = one hundredth of a second. The longer the shutter is open the more light hits the sensor. Fast Shutter speeds lets less and less light on to the sensor. This pics show how increasing shutter speed affects your picture note that the depth of field doesn’t change but the picture gets dimmer. But one thing shutter speed cannot control is flash. Flash is too quick to be controlled by shutter.

Next we will look at ISO. It differs from rest of two As the others are physical control of light hitting the sensor. ISO is adjusting the gain of the sensor to boost the amount of light hitting the sensor. If you look closely at the Zoomed-in portion you will notice grains in the higher ISO. This is noise that is a result of bumping the gain of the sensor.This limits your usable ISO range.